Sweet Potatoes is, of all things, a very satisfying one-of-a-kind restaurant, serving, among other delectable dishes, sweet potatoes!

Regular customers expect the Magu, Inc. group, creators of Toucan Cafe, to put a twist on the ordinary and come up with the extraordinary. And do it well! This time it’s Sweet Potatoes Kitchen, the restaurant, and, of course, Sweet Potatoes, the food.

The name derives from the image it evokes. Sweet potatoes: "Endearing food". Southern, healthy, delicious. By further definition, Sweet Potatoes, is "eclectic southern" and "healthy southern" cuisine—Southern with a flair.

Healthy southern? Absolutely. Comfort food? Yes! Food for the Soul! The kitchen has done away with the traditional old South dishes (over)-cooked in fat back and pork. Gone is food dripping in butter or deep fried in oil, in favor of sophisticated, low-fat combinations of herbs and spices, clarified chicken broth, vinegar, olive oil and lemon.

But, it’s most definitely Southern. Collard Greens, no longer wilted and cooked down to nothing, are crisp and flavorful; Chicken Gumbo, Georgia style with okra and sausage, is thick and mild; cornmeal crusted catfish, a favorite of locals, is delicately sautéed, accompanied with salsa and seasoned with wow. What could be more Southern than peach-glazed barbecue or bourbon molasses chicken?

Sweet Potatoes combines a Greek heritage with a Caribbean flair—and ends up as the Mediterranean school. A Sweet Potatoes staple flavor is "Jerk" seasoning, which has an exquisite sweet taste at first bite, followed by a slight peppery kick. (Jerk Talapia house salad, our recent introduction, is served with black-eyed pea relish. By itself, the house salad is delicious. With just about any main-dish topping, it becomes gourmet!)

Sweet Potatoes is the sister restaurant to 11- year-old Toucan Cafe, a popular gourmet spot scarcely a mile away. (It’s miles apart in ambience, although the upbeat pastel and bright whimsical décor for both are similar. Part of the Magu, Inc. group, they are each one-of-a-kind dining experiences.)

Toucan’s sophisticated menus make it the more upscale experience; Sweet Potatoes definitely appeals to families.

But the service and attention to customers is identical, as well as the insistence on excellence for food and staff. "Our Customers got us here. It’s important that we maintain our connections with them," said Owner Steve Magulias.

"Toucan made us legitimate," he explained, encouraging them to create anew. The flagship restaurant crept onto the Savannah scene in a tiny shopping center storefront. It outgrew its 29-seat space, moved to a free-standing building, then later expanded. There was nothing gradual about its overwhelming acceptance as one of Savannah’s favorite restaurants.

Though entirely different, Sweet Potatoes has emulated its sister, growing from a 55-seats to 75 and enlarging the kitchen for more efficient food preparation. Moving gradually, with both feet anchored, Steve’s secrets to success lie in both restaurants’ affordable price points, great service and high quality food. And enthusiastic hands-on management!

Romancing the restaurant’s name, Sweet Potatoes innovative menu features its Sweet Potato of the Day, ranging from sweet potato salad, sweet potato soup, sweet potato stuffing, sweet potato chili, sweet potato corn bread to just about any sweet potato dish the innovative chefs can conjure. Especially at lunch, the vegetable plate (including four) is a favorite.

Now, a word about desserts: After a healthy Sweet Potatoes meal, we decide, it’s okay to indulge in apple cobbler, chocolate chip pecan pie, banana pudding, or, some other delicious special of the day.

Sweet Potatoes is located at 6825 Waters Avenue (at Eisenhower Drive). Hours are 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, with service throughout the day. Reservations are accepted for five or more. Telephone 912 352-3434.

by Jane Kahn