It's always party time at Toucan Café. Or so it seems. On the weekends, when the place is really hopping, people take advantage of any wait - on the patio and in the foyer. And why not? It's a festive atmosphere - a little Caribbean, a little Greek Isles and a lot whimsy.

On Savannah's southside, centrally located near the residential section, is an exotic neighborhood restaurant that fits no standard category. From subtly flavored Jamaican Jerk chicken to filet mignon with demi-glace', Savannahians have come to depend on Toucan for excellent food, excellent prices, colorful; atmosphere and attentive service.

Although they are always changing unlisted specials, local diners often don't bother with the menu. Whether for portobello dinner (topped with spinach and roasted red peppers), Toucan's Hellenic chicken (stuffed with spinach and feta) or in hopes that fresh tomato dill is the soup of the day, they come to Toucan knowing exactly what they're in the mood for.

The menu has expanded to include downhome-type-taste (i.e. meat and whipped potatoes with seasonal vegetables) as well as the flavor-exotic dishes that established the restaurant's reputation. Some diners make no excuses - they come for the homemade desserts (now including Nancy's wonderful key lime pie and crème brulee).

Quietly in 1994, Toucan came to the scene in a hole-in-the-wall spot seating 29 diners near a movie theater complex. Before and after scheduled showtime, the place was packed and it did a healthy lunch business. But many Savannahians were disappointed when they couldn't be seated.

In December, 1998, Steve and Nancy Magulias moved Toucan a couple of blocks down the street into a free-standing stucco building designed for the restaurant, with additional and roomier seating.

With it they amplified the Toucan theme, elaborated on the intense hues, expanded the wine list (note, especially the "cellar selections") and broadened the menu. Steve credits Nancy for the creativity that has painted walls lime green, shocking pink, deep purple and bright yellow and striped furniture to match. (Nancy had never painted before in her life, but managed to have bird-of-paradise blooms on an interior wall, as if creeping in from the patio and other artistic touches throughout. An oil painting of the namesake bird hangs on one wall, ceramic and carved tropical birds perch elsewhere).

Toucan's shrimp provencal proved the perfect appetizer choice, sauced with traditional tomatoes, kalamata olives, garlic, white wine and Parmesan cheese. A finely-tuned peach chutney made at the restaurants highlights the curried vegetable Indian Samosa appetizer. And while there are those who delight in Toucan's Havana Black Bean soup, diced tomato dill soup topped with feta cheese is a perennial winner.

Salads come with options that make them a main dish (Papa's Greek Salad stands alone or pairs with Jerk chicken), Toucan Caesar is available with chicken or salmon, and the almond bedecked spinach salad is outstanding when topped with grilled marinated salmon.

Entrees are served with a side salad dressed with Toucan;s delicious Sweet Savannah Vinaigrette (also available to take home, by the pint). Relying on our waitress' recommendation, we ordered sesame encrusted tuna, (Sushi-grade, she assured us, but we ordered it medium anyway), which was beautifully presented atop soha noodles, as it was mouth-watering, paired with shavings of marinated ginger and lime beurre blanc sauce.

The Thai chicken and eggplant, with curry-coconut sauce, has always been a favorite. On the suggestion of a doctor friend and his wife, dining at a neighboring table, our next trip to the Toucan will include steak. The fillet they were served reminded them, they said, of the good old days of restaurant steaks in Savannah.

A toucan,according to the dictionary, is a bright colored bird of tropical America with an enormous beak. It feeds on fruit. We had already paid tribute to its beak. Now we decided to honor this bird in this place by finishing our meal with Toucan's coconut kiwi layer cake, exquisitely presented, as are all the dishes here, and even more exquisitely enjoyed.

by Jane Kahn
TRAVELHOST Spotlight